Lauryn Grubbs

In this paper, I explore the deconstruction of the mammy stereotype of Black women through casting and costuming choices in the blaxploitation films of the 1970s. I highlight the way this deconstruction led to a re-emphasis on the Jezebel and Sapphire stereotypes of Black women. To illustrate this argument, I conducted a film and costume analysis of four films: Coffy (1973), Foxy Brown (1973), Cleopatra Jones (1974), and Dynamite Wong and TNT Jackson (1974).

The findings of this paper are especially pertinent for fashion scholars, as visual cues and aspects of characters' appearance—such as hairstyle, skin color, fashion choices, and personal style—are used to construct these stereotypes. Fashion scholars interested in pop culture can draw on this research to investigate the use of fashion, style, and appearance to communicate aspects of identity; to explore discrimination in the fashion and beauty industries; and to examine the significance of costuming and casting decisions in film and television.

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